Tan vs Pigmentation: How to Spot the Difference & Treat Correctly

Many people often confuse the build-up of a tan caused by the sun with pigmentation. This results in picking the wrong products and therefore getting no results. Whilst our in-depth blog on why Indian skin pigments explains how melanin reacts to create pigmentation in South Asian complexions, this blog is your go-to spot the difference guide.

Understanding whether you have a tan or pigmentation is key to knowing what to apply to your skin.

What is the difference between tan and pigmentation?

Although both conditions are caused by melanin (the pigment that gives skin its colour), they are completely different in terms of depth, causes & their effects on the skin.

• Tan: A temporary defence mechanism caused by melanocytes (cells in the top layer of the epidermis) producing extra melanin to absorb UV rays from the sun. This will cause your skin to darken.
• Pigmentation: Occurs when the melanocytes in your skin get damaged, overstimulated and inflamed. They will deposit excess melanin into your deeper layers of the epidermis. Causing you to have dark spots, post-inflammatory pigmentation & melasma.

How do I know if I have tan or pigmentation?

The following factors can help you spot if you have tan or pigmentation.

1. Edges

• Tan: Uniform spots covering large areas of the skin. Clear edges where your clothing would cover your skin.
• Pigmentation: Clear spots, uneven patches (melasma) or dark spots caused from acne (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation).

2. Timeframe

• Tan: Tan will develop within hours or days after being outside & will then begin to fade as your skin naturally sheds.
• Pigmentation: Pigmentation will remain for months or years & will not fade.

3. Texture

• Tan: Skin will be smooth however can become dry to touch.
• Pigmentation: Often caused due to previous trauma to the skin such as a spot healing, scratch or hormonal changes during pregnancy or medication.

Does tan fade?

Yes. A tan will naturally fade on your skin. Your skin is constantly regenerating new skin cells. Old tanned cells will be shed from the top layer of the skin (stratum corneum).

• Natural Timeline: The average adult will have a tan fade in 2-6 weeks.
• Key Condition: However it will only fade if you stop causing melanin to be produced. This is done by applying a broad spectrum sunscreen daily.
• Speeding Up: To speed up the process you can apply a gentle surface exfoliator or de-tan mask.

What helps tan & pigmentation?

Tan & pigmentation occur in different layers of the skin therefore you will need to treat them differently.

What helps tan?

When treating a tan, the best thing to do is gently exfoliate the top layer of the skin & calm the oxidised skin.

• Apply a de-tan face mask 1-2 times a week to gently remove dead skin cells that are holding on to your tan. We recommend our Radiance Boost DeTan Face Mask.
• Apply a broad spectrum sunscreen daily to prevent tan from building again.

What helps pigmentation?

Dark spots on deeper layers of the skin will need actives to reduce tyrosinase (enzyme used to produce melanin) & break down the spots.

• Look for products with niacinamide, alpha arbutin, kojic acid & bakuchiol.
• If you have deep-set dark spots you can check out our Hyperpigmentation Collection.
• For detailed information on how to treat dark spots see our how to choose a sunscreen for Indian skin with no white residue & how to prepare your skin for festivals guides.

When to see a dermatologist?

Most tans & mild pigmentation can be treated with over the counter products formulated by dermatologists. However if you have any of the following, please visit a professional dermatologist:

• Unusual changes to a dark spot.
• Stinging, itching, bleeding or inflammation around pigmentation.
• If symmetrical spots on your face (melasma) aren’t responding to OTC brightening products after 8-12 weeks of applying daily.
• Considering undergoing a treatment such as chemical peel or laser for deep-set pigmentation.

FAQs

Q1. Can sun tan turn into pigmentation?

Continuous severe tanning without protection can cause damage to the skin. This will cause melanocytes to become overactive & will cause your tan to turn into pigmentation or sun spots.

Q2. Is de-tan mask useful for removing deep acne marks?

No. A de-tan mask will only help remove tan from the top layer of your skin. To remove dark spots caused by acne you will need brightening actives. These can be found in our hyperpigmentation range.

Q3. How long will pigmentation take to fade compared to tan?

A tan will fade in 2-6 weeks. Pigmentation can take 3-12 months to fade.

About the Author

Dr. Neeta Kapadia is a practising ophthalmologist and surgeon and co-founder of Rare Chemistry. She brings a medical, science-first approach to skincare, writing about ingredients, skin health and safe routines for Indian skin.